Thursday, October 1, 2009

Carpe Diem

So lacking motivation is something that I've corrected, like every other phase I fall into I've now been bitten by more technical climbing. I still can't find the motivation to write a trip report even though I aspire to one day compile them for a tribute like rendition of Halfway to Heaven.

Though I've swore off technical climbing just like a free soling purist swears off a day fighting the elements just to turn back because of it didn't feel right. I've given it a chance and found that it motivates me in a different way, not unfamiliar but lost.

While I find gratification in my endevour to reach the limits of fortitude, technical climbing or what I've experienced has brought out the competative spirit again. It's nice to be in a place where others have something to offer in terms of a challenge. Not in an egotistical sense but because I'm just the kind of person that strivea in the situations that I apply. It's nice to be humbled, to watch a 12 year old girl move with grace and ease through a move that you've spent more than a week studying and muscling. To not be concerned with being the best because it ain't goona happen right now. Kind of like when I began the martial arts, only interested in the knowledge.

All of this comes on after a few good weeks of "re-motivation" Lake Como did it for me. The two day excursion up a very long road, if you could call it that... harder than many of the 14'ers I've seen. Little Bear was a trial. I don't know if I forgot what mountaineering means because I've been bathing in the gluttony of sunny skies, warm nights and care free decisions but Little Bear was a reality check. From miss estimating the time of sunrise to free soloing well above my safety level. Regardless it reminded me of why I started mountaineering, the enjoyment of being in dangerous situations.

Following Lake Como, I took some down time which started as a tourist ascent of Cameron, Lincoln and Bross and ended after a true to winter turn around from the summit of Cameron and a re-ascent of Bross from the trailhead. As much as I dread winter (only for the driving) it's nice to get back into that survival mentality.

Did some technical climbing in Clear Creek this weekend and found after climbing the hour glass in the conditions on Little Bear, being on a top rope and making the crux is the least I should be afraid of. An interesting story concerning this climb, at the start of the route we did we were on a ledge about 30 feet above a class 4 section into Clear Creek. Nothing to be afraid of but not something you would want to fall down, we even went as far as to tie into some pro while we belayed and stood around. At the end of the day I dropped my helmet which fell to the river and floated downstream. As we left Leo noticed it submerged on the opposite side of the river. We ended up doing a tyrolean traverse to the opposite side to retrieve it.

And finally bouldering has continued to progress, I'm now onsighting most of the rec problems which are typically in the V4- range and completing multiple intermediate ones, the latter being up in the V5-V8 range. That's up to and including 5.13 moves and for those that think it doesn't count when you're not humping over the 5.7 terrain to get there, I seen many "bad ass" climbers in the gym that blast up the hardest routes, take a step off some of the easiest problems. A crux from the first move. Blisters and wounds have moved from my palms to my knuckles and now to my finger tips. I open doors with with two fingers only on the tips, lift weights using only the inside of my knuckles but still am put to shame by that damn 12 year old girl.

But I stuck a dyno all night tonight.

The unibomber is back.